Wire gauges 101

When I first started using wire in my jewelry I found the whole gauge thing so confusing. I searched books, the internet, and magazines for info to try to piece together what to use for what purpose.

Here’s my wire cheat sheet:

What do the terms mean?

Gauge: The gauge is the thickness of the wire.

14 gauge: 1.65 mm in diameter -

for clasps, thick jump rings, chain maille jewellery, neck rings, bangle bracelets, substantial formed links, eye pins for beads with very large holes

16 gauge: 1.3 mm in diam. -

for clasps, thick jump rings, chain maille jewellery, neck rings, bangle bracelets, substantial formed links, eye pins for beads with large holes

18 gauge: 1.0 mm in diam. –

for more delicate clasps, jump rings, formed links, eye pins, head pins, wire-wrapping, fits through most bead holes, also good for making ear-wires, though 20 gauge is more common. I like 18 gauge myself, but I also use 20 gauge for making earwires.

20 gauge: 0.8 mm in diam. -

for jump rings, delicate formed links, eye pins, head pins, wire-wrapped links, split-rings, fits through most bead holes. Also good for making earwires. For more about earwires, see Lara’s comment below. Thanks Lara!

22 gauge: 0.65 mm in diam. –

for wire-wrapping, wire-wrapped head-pins, eye-pins, fits through almost all bead holes

24 gauge: 0.5 mm in diam. -

standard size for wire-wrapped bead links and head pins, wire-wrapping, fits through all but the smallest bead holes. Semi-precious gemstone beads and pearls often have smaller holes than other beads. This gauge fits through almost all of these.

26 gauge: 0.4 mm

for wire crochet, wire-wrapped bead links and head pins, wire-wrapping, fits through all but the smallest bead holes. Semi-precious gemstone beads and pearls often have smaller holes than other beads. This gauge should fit through all of these.

28 gauge: 0.32 mm

for wire crochet, wire-wrapping, wire-weaving.

Temper: The hardness (or softness) of the wire

Dead-soft:

refers to wire that has been annealed (made softer by heat) and is very easy to bend with your hands or with tools. I prefer this temper to half-hard because I find it much easier to work with. This temper can be hardened (called work-hardening) by tapping it with a nylon or rawhide hammer, or squeezing it between nylon jaw pliers. It can also be work-hardened by hitting it on a steel block or anvil with a chasing hammer or a regular hammer. This will flatten the wire though (this is called forging – it give clasps, links, and jump rings a really nice, finished look).

Half-hard:

refers to wire that is harder and more rigid than dead-soft. It can still be worked, but takes more effort and skill. It is more rigid and snaps more easily. Some prefer half-hard to dead-soft because it makes for a stronger link. This temper is too hard for wire-wrapping (except for maybe the 26 or 28 gauge).

Full-hard:

this wire is quite hard and rigid and does not bend easily. This temper is too hard for jewellery-making.

Wire Shape: refers to the shape of the diameter of the wire

Round: regular wire (end looks like a circle)

Half-round: flat on one side of the wire (end looks like a like a half-moon)

Square: 4 equal flat sides (end looks like a square)

Triangular: 3 equal flat sides (end looks like a triangle)

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